Tuesday I decided to take a hike around Chinchero. It´s a small town known for its weaving. It sits on a high plateau at 12,000 ft. Its an agricultural area of rolling plains. I got a cab to the bus and was soon en route. It took just as long to climb out of Cusco as the ride thru the countryside to Chinchero.
The town has few tourist services but there are a few rudimentary restaurants. The first one I went to seemed deserted so I went down the street. There is no menu, you get what they have that day. Shortly after sitting down I am brought a bowl of quinoa soup. I haven´t even spoken to anyone. They know you are there to eat. They offer 2 choices. I order one and soon a plate appears with a mysterious cut of meat,some rice and creamed potatos. The meat is like rubber. I eat a little and some rice and split.
I went to the town hall to see if I could get some information about the upcoming festival that week end. All I could find out was that the bull fight was on Sunday.
I then set off on my hike. I had passed thru this area going and coming from Ollantaytambo and had scouted out a possible route from the road. People familiar with the area said there should be no problem hiking from Chinchero to the nearby town of Maras, from where I could catch a combi or bus back to Cusco. Should take around 3 hours.The hike started with a long straight death march down a rocky country road past the local sewage treatment area, a couple of open ponds of sewage. Finally the road made a slight curve. I stopped to take a leak and some photos. Continuing on I passed a woman collecting cow pies barehanded. There is little firewood in this area. Climbing a low ridge to a small village I realise I have left my camera on the side of the road. I hurry back about a half mile to find it still lying there. Luckily this is a fairly deserted area. I follow the road around some hills and down along a small ravine.There are some farm houses but very few people around.This area looks a lot like northern California, with rolling golden hills covered by patches of Eucalyptus trees .The sun is out and its very mild, despite the high altitude. Descending further the view opens out to a beautiful pastoral area dotted with farms. A large lake appears and that is one of my landmarks. My road curves away in the opposite direction but I can see another road below going the right way. I ask a woman working by the side of the road if that is the way to Maras. She replies yes and sends me down the hill on a short cut thru her farm. I am soon hiking along this road enjoying an awesome view of the nearby snow capped peaks. Another mile or so brings me to a small town. Entering this town it seems like the set of a spaghetti western. A deserted dusty street flanked by dust covered houses. Not a person in sight. The dogs don´t even bother to get up to bark. A deserted truck is parked in front of a padlocked store. Further up the road I see the only sign of life, a young boy playing in the dirt. I stopped and gave him the toy car I received at the birthday party. Soon I come to a crossroads. One of the roads is paved. I follow it for a mile or so and come to the main highway. I have been hiking for 2 1/2 hours so I call it a day and wait for a combi. Within 10 minutes a late model van with only a couple of passengers stops. I am soon dozing as we return to Cusco. The ride back costs all of $2.
That nite I took it easy. A meal of saltado of alpaca and a couple of beers at Km 0 and I´m ready for bed
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