Tuesday, July 24, 2012

Ollantaytambo

The flight to Cuzco went over a huge area of desert mountains almost devoid of human activity. Then we got to Cuzco. The approach and landing were hairy and I was glad when the plane touched down. The terminal was freezing but it was nice outside in the sun. A short taxi ride brought me to a combi(van) and I was soon crossing the altiplano to the Sacred Valley. This is one of the most fertile areas of Peru. Run off from glaciers feeds the Urubamba River, which is used for irrigation. Soon I was in Ollantaytambo. This is the best presrved Incan village in Peru. It´s an enchanted place. The town has been continually occupied since at least 1440, 100 years before the Spanish arrived. The old town is laid out in a grid in the shape of a trapezoid. The main streets are barely wide enough for a car and the cross streets are even more narrow. The is no vehicular traffic in this section. All the houses are built on ancient Inca walls,still solid 600 years later with no mortar holding the stones together. Unfortunately this is where the road to Machu Picchu ends and you catch a train for the final part. So there is a constant parade of tour buses and vans all day. The town is in a deep valley surrounded by glacier covered peaks. There is a large ruin second only to Machu Picchu on one edge of town which is a major tourist attraction itself. The town is very small; you can walk from one end to the other in 10 minutes.
  The town is a mix of tourists from all over, the local people, and highland villagers in ropa typica (traditional outfits), plus a bunch of hippies, so of course I am right at home. My guest house is a 2 minute walk from the town square and is very clean with a flower filled courtyard. Its a deal at $20/nite.
There is not much nitelife as most bars close at 11. But there is a disco open sometimes. I ended up there Saturday nite. I was the only tourist there and half the people looked to be around 16. The weather is sunny and mild in the day but in the afternoon the wind kicks up and the temperature drops rapidly as soon as you lose the sun. Glad I brought my leather jacket.

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