Monday, July 30, 2012

Parrillada

Saturday morning was my first full day in Cusco. I spent the morning and half the afternoon wandering aimlessly checking out the town. I run across a young boy in full ropa typica leading a llama. He says take my picture. I tell him I don´t have my camera but here´s 1 sol($.40) anyway. He asks me where I´m from and I tell him USA. He says that´s the biggest country in the world,right? I say no, the richest. Russia is the biggest. He seems puzzled. I went back to the room for a bit then left in search of lunch.
   I walked a couple of blocks down the hill and heard music blaring from an open door and a sign that said parrillada $10sols. So I paid my 10 sols and went in. Inside was a primitive compound surounded by some 2 story houses that have to be at least 200 years old. A parrillada is like a BBQ and some women are cooking meat on a large griddle over a wood fire. s/10 buys a plate with a chicken leg, a pork chop and a scary sausage with a couple of potatos. I pull up a bench and sit down and they bring my plate. It´s pretty tasty and I buy a large beer to wash it down. Everyone here is a local and I am quite the curiosity. A middle aged woman keeps catching my eye and toasting me. Everyone is drinking from tiny 4 oz  plastic cups. She invites me over to the table where she is sitting with 3 other women. Her name is Ampara and she is really friendly. And already fairly lit. She wants to fix me up with her aunt, Juanita, who is actually younger than her. I ask if this is a family or neighborhood party and she says no, it´s a fund raiser for their religious organization. They belong to a sect that worships an Andes version of Christ of the Mountain. Apparently it doesn´t prohibit drinking. I buy another beer. I meet her husband and 15 year old daughter. We drink more beer. I tell them I have never married but that I had a novia of 15 years. I said de instead of para so she thought I mean my girlfriend was 15. She starts telling me how much she loves her daughter. Much later this error comes to light. They buy more beer. The beers are 1.1 liter bottles and everyone constantly refills their little cups. I meet some more people. I am flirting with Juanita, a 43 yo widow of 8 years. Day turns to night. I dance with Ampara and Juanita. Ampara is getting really fucked up.We drink more beer. I love this stuff, partying with the locals. All the women are checking me out. Finally around 8 the party breaks up and I head back up the hill feeling pretty buzzed. A fun afternoon.
    I must have eaten dinner but for some reason i can´t remember what it was. Then I went back to the rock club, London Town. I got there a little early and got a seat at the bar. The bar is where the dance floor should be. After about 15 minutes the band starts. They are a kick ass local band that plays rock/ska/latin. They are a 7 piece with drum,percussion,bass,guitar,keyboard,trumpet and lead singer. They are very high energy. The bar is full of hip,young , locals and very few tourists. Everybody smokes. After an hour my eyes start burning. During the second set I met a couple of locals who spoke English. I am sort of a novelty to them but they can tell I´m really into the music.
   They wrapped up their set at around 1:30 and I am happy to have some fresh air. Outside is a guy in a giant guinea pig costume accompanied by a chick who looks like a refugee from Eeyore´s birthday party.They are handing out fliers for the local strip club. I walked a block to the Plaza de Armas where there are 2 hopping discos packed with people. There are actually some Peruvian hootchies in black dresses. I check out all the people coming and going from the discos and go into the one that says no one under 23 admitted. It´s packed to the rafters and I work my way towards the bar. The music is actually not obnoxious, kind of a latin beat electronica. Its now after 2 and after a small beer I split. There is a long line outside waiting to enter. A line of taxis is in the Plaza de Armas and I hop in one for a ride back.
   

No comments:

Post a Comment